BVI Day 5: Anegada

Oh man everyone today is a bit lethargic, it doesn’t help we were kept up late last night by loud music we think was coming from two boats together up on a single mooring. No one really wants to decide what we’re doing. The weather today is better for sailing than tomorrow, and we weigh the choice between heading off to Jost van Dyke or staying here for the day with worse angle and higher winds tomorrow.

In the end I just can’t stand the idea of coming all the way out here and not seeing the place. So I decide lets rent a car and drive around the island and no one else feeling particularly strongly that’s what we’re gonna do.’

The plan is to rent a car and drive around the island for the day, do a little snorkeling and swimming, have some nice lunch. There is a salt pond in the middle of the island where flamingos that got out of a zoo in Antigua I think it was got free spend their time. There are a few snorkeling spots as well on the north side of the island.

We have a lot of stuff we’re bringing with us since everyone has their set of fins and mask and what not plus their day packs, and since the dinghy can hardly handle us as is Rob shuttles us in two groups. I go in the first set and head to Stephany’s car rental. Its $85+10 insurance for the day. Greg though wants to drive, and honestly I’m happy to let him, they drive on the left side here. Instead I decide it’s my job to constantly remind him “stay on the left” even when he’s doing just fine. Especially when we come to the islands one traffic circle, hard enough for us American’s when we’re driving on the right side!

Our first stop headed east is the Flamingo lake. They’ve built a nice little viewing platform, but the no one told the flamingos they’re a tourist attraction, and all we see are a line of 11 little pink dots on the far side of the lake.

We continue on to the Settlement, which is hardly a town. Tammy remarks “this is just the sort of place I could see finding a place and spending some time with a typewriter doing some writing”  just before we pass by a house of some famous author that has been turned into a museum. The timing was impeccable. And as we were laughing about it we went sailing past our turn.

We were headed to an Iguana Head Start facility where they keep juvenile Anegada Iguanas until they’re old enough to not get eaten by wild stray cats. They have cages set up and we can tell which ones have iguanas in them by which have food, but its not always easy to find the iguanas. As the sun warms things up more and more we find more iguanas sunning themselves, not as worried by our presence.

From there we head north to Loblolly Bay. A loblolly boy was the person who helped a ship’s surgeon, and this gets me thinking a lot about the Master and Commander book series. There are 2 little restaurants on this patch of sand, though one is closed. Before eating we check out the beach which is a long line of white windswept sand with a barrier reef, many shades of green and a strong breeze. It’s positively gorgeous. The owner of the little restaurant is anxious to take our orders and tells us about her famous west indies roti, which I absolutely love. I’m sold.

We sit down to eat, and I’m a bit surprised how expensive the roti is compared to everything else. But I’m in either way. The food takes a long time to come, and nearly as long for the bill. But we’re on island time, we don’t have that much planned for the day either way.

After lunch its to the beach. The wind is pushing a rip tide down the shore that looks pretty fierce and no one wants to go in the water but me. I figure I can just go up wind a bit, and do something sort of like a drift dive and then swim in the last little bit. It’s all shallow and I can basically stand up almost everywhere between the beach and the reef. I have a go, and then Pam and Jenn decide they want to go. Jenn is a bit anxious, more than usual so I have out with her. I didn’t bring my mask for the second drift just planning to float, but Jenn gets super excited having seen some massive fish, and I can’t see it. She takes my camera and gets a little bit of a shot of it. I’m not sure what it is she’s seen, and the camera doesn’t show it’s size at all.

From here we load up and head back past where we started the day and around a corner to Cow Wreck Beach. Who knows why the name. A long the way we pass the flamingo pond, and they’re still there, in the distance. Someone makes the joke perhaps they’re of the lawn variety!

It seems like everyone is here Cow Wreck Beach Bar and it has quite the island feel with everyone in their swimsuits just passing the time partying, playing games, swimming or sunning. Sunning is out the question for me though, I’m keeping up with the sunscreen but still red from the day before. The bar is pleasant and airy, and they made a dirty banana of sorts for Jenn, though it doesn’t have any ice cream. Close! I take another swim, the wind is doing the same thing at this end of the island, but here isn’t not as nice because the beach ends at a reef that comes right to the surface so you can’t get very far. Pam enjoys it either way, she absolutely loves snorkeling even when there isn’t hardly anything to see!

The girls all then spend some time in the gift shop, and as it turns out this is probably the best one we’ll see. And we also get ourselves a key lime pie for desert.

We head back to Setting Point and our boat dropping the car off along the way. We have a few more items to pick up at the little grocer, and we need some ice, the fridge in this boat doesn’t seem worth a damn. Rob takes the first group back. Of course it starts raining now.

The avocados I brought are finally ripe, so tonight I’m making the quinoa enchilada bake I had planned, though without an oven it proves hard to get consistently warm. I’m flustered by the whole thing, I’ve managed in the past to do just fine with RV stoves, so not being able to get this warm enough with 6 people waiting is tough. But in the end it turns out fine, and I can’t believe it almost all gets eaten right there with 1 small portion leftover. The pie isn’t half bad either, though I’m so stuffed now.

The sun sets while we’re enjoying our wine after the meal, and I’m glad we did today. I think I’d have a lot of regret having sailed here and not seen the island, and thanks to there not being that much to see other than some amazing beaches, I can now say I’ve definitely seen Anegada. All of it. Everyone is in a good mood, the malaise is gone, replaced by satisfaction with ourselves and our day. If we didn’t have such a short time here, I’d love to spend more days relaxing and tooling about. You definitely feel removed here.

The music kicked off again right before bed, but now we can tell that it’s coming from the bar. So maybe I wouldn’t spend more time HERE exactly.

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